Link Ups are sooo hot right now

So if you are up to date on climbing news, link ups have been pretty hot.  Tommy and Honnold did the Triple in Yosemite.  And then some link up in Zion.  Alix, Drew, Mark, and I linked up some moderates in Index.  And then Mark and Drew did Way Grand- the link up of Freeway and the Grand Wall on the Chief.  Link ups are hot, so to stay hip, we have been trying to link up a lot of stuff.

The point of this is to talk about Mark and Drew linking Freeway and the Grand Wall.  Mark is going to write up about this since I took yesterday to link up the coffee shop, a massage, and then the grocery store.

I won't say more about "the" linkup, but I will catch you up on what is happening in Squamish.  Noteworthy ascents include: me leading a 10b and 10a on gear, and Mark onsighting 12a on gear!

Mark and I were planning to do a climb called Sunset Strip, a longer, newer, 5.10 route on the Chief, but due to some aggressive weekend traffic, we bailed.  The weekend crowd has way more of an agenda than the midweek folk.  But it all worked out because the first pitch we did climb was an awesome 10c, and then we climbed Arrowroot, a single pitch 10b finger crack not too far from the base of Sunset Strip.  I have been a little tentative to lead on gear but I felt that this would be good for me: straightforward, splitter, finger crack.  It was a very positive experience all around!  Definitely one of the best 10b's I have ever climbed.

Later in the day we went to Murrin Park and Mark onsighted Sentry Box, an awesome 12a finger crack!!!!  The first part is a 10a crack system, to a cool move around a small roof, to the business.  The crux is really thin but Mark cruised it!  Onsighting 5.12 on gear was one of his goals this trip so both of us were really psyched.

The next day we went to the Petrifying Wall at Murrin Park for some sport climbing.  Greg, Mark, and I got pretty worked, and super psyched.  I particularly liked a climb called Blackwater (12a).  Maybe another project?  I have done all the moves but the pump factor is high and I am not sure if I want to put more time into projecting a route when I came up to Squamish really wanting to get a lot of mileage leading on gear.  But who knows, it is a gem.

Mark on Blackwater 12a

Greg on Burning Down the Couch 11d

On Monday we spent some time getting internet and exploring a new area of Squamish.  We got to watch some kite surfers and hike around the estuary.  Kite surfing is wild!  I can't say I have much desire to try it, but I plan on going back to watch.

Looking at the Chief from the estuary trails

Some estuary birds.  Canadian geese I think? In Canada!

Kite surfers with Shannon Falls in the background

Mt. Garibaldi in the background

He hit the water pretty hard

It was so windy! At least 30 mph winds.  Thanks to Greg for snapping this pic.

Well, I don't have much more to add.  Mark is going to write something up about the link-up so be looking for that.  The next couple of weeks are pretty exciting: Mark and I have a handful of climbs we are psyched to get on, Doug arrives, and Mark's Dad and sister will be up here visiting!

I know this post was pretty heavy on climbing lingo so I wanted to explain a few terms I threw out there.  A link up is when climbers link two or more climbs (usually in a day).  For example, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold linked up the Nose on El Cap, the Regular NW Face on Half Dome, and some route on Mt. Watkins in a day.  The crux is the hardest part of the climb, and a splitter crack is a parallel sided crack.  Hopefully that helps a little!

xoxo LMo and MK

The happs

Before I go into the happenings of late, Greg hooked us up with some throwback photos from Smith.  A lot of times when I am trying to place a cam and my foot is slowly sliding off some glacier polished feet, or digging dirt and moss off a foothold, I miss Smith.  Actually, I miss Smith a lot.  That said, Squamish is a rad place and in terms of quantity (and quality) it has a lot to offer.  Here is a picture of Mark and I, and one of Mark falling, or as we would say “taking a whip” on Churning in the Wake at the Morning Glory Wall at Smith. 

Greg Horvath

Greg Horvath

Since I last checked in, Mark and I have been up to quite a bit of climbing.  Given how long the days are, we sometimes will climb a route in the morning and still have time for a leisurely bouldering session in the afternoon.  On Wednesday we did just that- we woke up early to climb a route called Hairpin (10a) on the Papoose (what the formation of rock is called i.e. the Chief), checked out Shannon Falls and then went out for some bouldering in the afternoon.  An added bonus was a fixed line all the way down the Papoose.  That meant that once we got to the top of the climb (Hairpin) we could do one long rappel all the way to the start of the climb and avoid a bushy walk-off or multiple rappels using our 60 meter rope! 

Logs being transported on the Howe Sound

Looking down the second pitch of Hairpin

Shannon Falls

Shannon Falls

In the bouldering world, Mark has being crushing!  He has been bouldering way more than I have and has developed a circuit to build back some strength.  In the past week he has quickly sent two V7’s (Goldenboy and Immunity Challenge), onsighted (got up the climb first try without anyone telling him how to do it) two V5’s (Timeless, and Wafer Thin), and been sending everything in between.  The bouldering in Squamish generally involves big powerful movement, something which I think Mark is particularly good at, so it has been fun to watch him monkey his way up a lot of stuff.  The bouldering has been pretty humbling for me thus far but I am starting to get a bit more acquainted with the style and holds.  Like I said earlier, this sure ain’t the Buttermilks.  I did Slingshot (V2) the other day and it just may be the best V2 I have ever done!  A bold statement, but so far I cannot think of another V2 that comes close.  We went back out to introduce Greg to this gem and brought out the cameras to get some pictures.  That day, Greg also sent Immunity Challenge (V7)!

Slingshot V2

Picture by Greg Horvath

Greg Horvath

Greg Horvath

Greg Horvath

Mark and Greg hanging by Viper V5

A cool fern in the forest

Yesterday, we made the trek up to a fabled off-width (OW) climbing crag called The Cirque of the Uncrackables.  Cobra Crack, an iconic 5.14 finger crack is also in the area, surrounded by some gaping OWs. OW climbing requires good technique and in my opinion a whole lot of suffering, grit, and groveling.  It is not uncommon to feel like you may puke after doing an OW climb.  Fun, right?  One of the climbs in the Cirque is even called Boogie til you Puke.  Also jokingly referred to as Boogie til you Poop after a video was put out last year showing a climber on it who was trying so hard that he pooped his pants.  If you really want to see it, here is a link http://vimeo.com/13831211.  Greg, Mark, and I were planning to meet up with some friends up there and despite some navigational mishaps, a subsequent summit of second peak, and carry over, we finally made it there (more than doubling the actual 45 minute approach).  The view from second peak was pretty awesome though so I guess we can go ahead and say that it was worth it.  Greg and Mark cruised up almost all the climbs there, while I on the other hand, laybacked my way up the 5.9 OW and called it good.  Laybacking an OW is generally not considered the best technique, but hey, I had fun!  I can’t really say that I enjoy OW climbing but maybe someday I will be inspired to "put my time in," as they say.  After grossly underestimating the amount of food we should have brought, we treated our growling tummies to a Hot-n-Ready ($5 pizza from Little Ceasars).  It was fantastic.

View from the top of Second Peak.  You can see the top of First Peak on the left.  Mark and I topped out First Peak last week when we climbed Banana Peel to Boomstick Crack to Butt Light. 

Mark and Greg!

It is hard to believe that we are almost already two months into our trip! I definitely miss home, but I am so happy that Mark and I worked hard to make this trip possible.  Every now and then I still can’t believe that we are actually on the road, seeing new places, and getting to climb nearly everyday at the places we only dreamed of going to just a year ago.  I am very lucky that my parents exposed me to camping, and a general appreciation of nature early on.  It is fun making my own memories outside with Mark and our friends, but I sure miss our family camping trips.  And after being a nanny (Hi Ian!! ;) ), I am beyond impressed that my parents got all of us packed up, and out there. 

Also, we are aware of the fire in Idyllwild but don't get internet too often so we would appreciate updates via text message!

xoxo Lauren (and Mark)

The Big Black Dog Comes to Squamish!

We have been in Squamish for just over a week now and wow- Squamish is awesome!

One of my best friends, Charlotte, came up with her dog Huckleberry for a quick visit to climb, catch up, and enjoy Squamish.  Huckleberry is a Labradane (half Labrador, half Great Dane), and up until yesterday I had only heard stories, stalked him on Instagram, and regularly read “his” blog (www.thebigblackdogblog.com).  I must say that Huckleberry exceeded my expectations- not just in size (he is a mini-horse), but also in temperament. When Charlotte told me her 1 year old Labradane was super mellow I was skeptical, but apparently the Great Dane in him really brings out a wonderful mellow and relaxed disposition that is glaringly absent in 1 year old Labradors. 

Charlotte, Mark, and I (and Huckleberry) climbed in the Smoke Bluffs for the two days she was here.  The Smoke Bluffs are super fun, and a quick walk from our apartment.  I am so thankful that she drove up here, dog in tow, and spent a couple of days with us. 

Picture by Charlotte

Picture by Charlotte

A rarity!  Picture by Charlotte

Huckleberry watches, very concerned and confused about this whole climbing thing. Picture by Charlotte

Last night (Tuesday) we had the first of many Doco (rhymes with Taco) Tuesdays to come.  We made tacos and then watched a documentary.  This idea compliments of Drew, who also brought over some TimBits from Tim Horton’s for us to try.  They are essentially doughnut holes, but they are definitely not called doughnut holes!  Anyway, Doco Tuesday was a success. 

 

The setup for doco viewing.

Today, Mark and I did a long day of moderate climbing up the Chief (the biggest hunk of granite in Squamish).  We linked up Banana Peel (5.7, 8 pitches) to Boomstick Crack (5.7, 2 pitches), to The Butt Light (5.9, 8 pitches). The climbing was super fun, the conditions were perfect, and I had packed a piece of strawberry rhubarb pie that we ate at the top.  Mark and I are recently into strawberry rhubarb pie and eating a piece after 18 pitches of climbing made it that much better.  The Butt Light is a newer route and I wanted to link to a blog post about the route by one of the first ascentionists, Sonnie Trotter, about all the work that went into putting up the route.  http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/07/28/a-long-story-for-the-readers/ 

As per a suggestion from one of our many readers (hah! Just kidding), I will try and better explain some of the rock climbing terms that I throw out.  So to start out- the grade of a climb (the difficulty) ranges from 5.0-5.15 with 5.0 being the easiest, and 5.15c being the grade that only Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra (two of the strongest climbers out there) have climbed.  As a side note, if you are bored, there is a spoof of Taylor Swift’s Trouble song with Adam Ondra that is pretty entertaining.

Aside from all that, life in Squamish is good- I am sampling the Canadian selection of candy (Bigfoot sour feet), we are slowly furnishing the place with the free “art” (maps from the visitor center), and free Craigslist items, and we are psyched on our mini dishwasher.  It is literally a 2 ft. x 2 ft. little box, but it is a whole lot of awesome. 

Since I have started talking about our dishwasher I figure it is time to wrap this post up!  Also, please excuse the run on sentences.  Usually Mark gives these posts a healthy edit after I write them, but he is out bouldering and I can only poach internet from the local bar for so long.

xoxo

Lauren and Mark

Happy 4th of July from Canada!

We ended up leaving Index earlier than expected due to the funky camping scene and the fact that it was just too hot to really enjoy the climbing.  But before we left, we enjoyed some time in the river and Greg did a little “float”.  And by “float” I mean that he took his inner tube down a Class III section of the Skykomish River. 

We bounced out of Index and headed up to North Cascades National Park to climb in an area called Washington Pass.  Alix and Drew had scoped out a climb they wanted to do and we decided to tag along and continue our trend of partying up climbs as a group of 4.  The climb we did is called the West Face of North Early Winter Spire and goes at 5.11a with the crux pitch being an awesome, albeit very short, finger crack.  We had a leisurely day filled with avoiding habituated mountain goats, some brief snow walking, and some awesome climbing with friends.  The WA Pass area is gorgeous to boot.  To avoid another parking lot bivy we camped at Larrabee State Park, just south of Bellingham.  This gave us a chance to check out a cool place, be close to the border for crossing the next day, and most importantly, stock up at the last Trader Joe’s before we left the states.

I love this picture of Mark!

Tiny crab!

So now we are up here in Squamish, staying in our apartment in the Valleycliffe neighborhood.  It is awesome!  Greg and I spent yesterday morning at thrift stores and Wal-Mart and the place is looking a little homier.  We also have a view of the Chief from our balcony!  After completely monopolizing the laundry room yesterday we are almost all settled in and ready for two months in Squamish. 

This morning Mark and I wanted to do some mellow, classic climbing so we headed to the Apron and climbed Diedre, a six pitch 5.8 on the Chief.  We had a blast, probably should have packed some warmer clothes, and got directions to an awesome finger crack on the Grand Wall (still part of the Chief) from a friendly Canadian.  Granite cracks are awesome!  It was super nice to climb some easy terrain and get more comfortable placing gear again.  One of my main goals here is Squamish is to get a lot of mileage on 5.10 and under climbs placing gear.  I also want to get back into bouldering and get some power back.  We walked around the Grand Wall boulders yesterday and found a lot more slopers than crimps.  This sure ain't the Buttermilks.  But, I did find a sick crimpy problem I can't wait to get on.  Psyche is high!

The view from the top of the second pitch on Diedre

On the way back down to the car we passed by Dreamcatcher, a really hard and striking line on the Cacodemon boulder.  Mark was really excited to see it since watching a video of Sharma on it years ago got him super psyched on climbing. 

 Now we are going to get some ice cream (having a freezer is awesome!!!) and sneak in some evening bouldering.  Or we may just eat ice cream.  

xoxo Lauren and Mark